Beauty Industry

Experts Discuss Skin Color Differences

Panel features Clinique, Lauder skin science experts.

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By: Jamie Matusow

Editor-in-Chief

During the opening-day technical track at HBA Global, attendees at “Cosmetical Biochemistry: A Surface Treatment Approach to the Wide Range of Skin of Color” listened to and participated in discussions centered on gaining a more in-depth understanding of the biochemical, structural and functional nature of skin.

In “Variations in stratum corneum properties of human subjects from different ethnic backgrounds,” Dr. Neelam Muizzuddin, director of clinical research at Estée Lauder Companies, discussed her firm’s study involving 119 Caucasian, 73 African American and 149 Asian women who were between 15-45 years old. The study looked at skin sensitivity, skin microflora, barrier integrity and D-squame analysis for proteins and ceramides.

During the session, Dr. Muizzuddin also said she is interested in gaining a greater understanding about sebum content in African American skin.

The closing topic “Understanding the biochemistry of the surface of the Epidermis: Being comfortable in your own skin,” was presented by Dr. Paolo Giacomoni, executive director of R&D at Clinique. Dr. Giacomoni opened his presentation with the following slide: “Would you buy a lipstick that takes 4 weeks to turn your lips red?” According to Dr. Giacomoni, this statement emphasizes why we search for the immediate consumer benefit.

Dr. Giacomoni sees the stratum corneum as the “interface” between outside world and the inside, not as a barrier between the two. When the stratum corneum is in good shape, we can feel it; there is better reflection of light, it feels smoother, is flexible and supple, and there is optimal activity of resident enzymes, according to Dr. Giacomoni.

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